Prague is known for its astronomical clock, bridge, castle, and cobblestone alleys. Romantic sights are found everywhere in this city of romance, but how about food? And what exactly are Prague’s local delicacies? Being foodies, my husband and I sought out Prague cuisine at popular places, and below is the list of all the places we have been, and what we ate.
Trdelnik is Everywhere in Old Town
The first up is a dessert. Trdelnik is a kind of spit cake, which is made with rolling a dough around a stick and then baking it, before topping it with sugar and walnut coating. It is viewed as a traditional Czech pastry by many, but in fact, you can find it anywhere in Eastern Europe, just with a different name. In fact, it is said to have originated in a Hungarian-speaking part of Transylvania, Skalica, in the 18th century.
You can go for the original trdelnik without any ice-cream, but I love my ices, and I think it makes a sinfully indulgent cone. Indeed, ice-cream and trdelnik are a match made in dessert heaven. You can find this anywhere in Old Town Square, but not in the neighbourhood area that I stayed in (Vinohrady), so I suppose it has now become a tourist trap, but it is so delicious I don’t mind forking out the money for it. After all, I am a tourist.
Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden
Next up is beer. Prague is known to be a beer lover’s paradise, but while I’m not a beer connoisseur, nothing beats a couple of beers on a warm sunny day to cool one’s body down. It wasn’t exactly hot when we were there, but it was warm enough to long for some good beer to quench our thirst, and so we drank beer almost everyday. Don’t judge, beer is really cheap in Europe, and Prague’s beer is very good. It should be, considering that their people are the highest consumers of beer per capita in the world.
Pilsner is its signature beer, and it is a pale lager, which is perfect for me, for I loathe the taste of black beer. It tastes like soy sauce to me. But the Prague locals are fiercely proud of their beer, and will even make demurring customers drink their beer, so I was actually made to down a black beer. (I’ll save this special experience for later, you just have to read on!). Pilsner was very smooth, creamy and not very bitter, so I liked it. Amongst all the different places we had our beer at, Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden was the best.
Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden is located at Riegrovy Sady Hill, which is in Vinohrady. As I mentioned in my previous post, Riegrovy Sady is a wonderful, green space with many flowers blooming in Spring. And its beer garden has a really great, lively atmosphere.
Address: Riegrovy Sady 28, Prague, Czech Republic (Vinohrady & Vršovice)
Tel: +420 608 911 536
Opening time: From April to Oct
Metro Stations: Náměstí Míru or Jiřího z Poděbrad, both a short walk away.
Bus stop: Bus 135 stops at Na Smetance, which is very close to the main entrance of the park.
Tram stop: Tram 11 stops at Italská, which is also close.
Traditional Microbrewery – Pivovar U Fleků
If you have always wanted to go to a traditional microbrewery with musicians performing in close vicinity, this is the place to visit. U Fleků is the only brewery in Central Europe where beer has been brewed continuously for more than 500 years. The halls are decorated in a very European beer hall style, with dark wood boards, chandeliers, and stained-glass windows lending an air of European romance. Their servers force their dark lagers down on you, even if you refuse, I guess this is just how proud they are of their beer. And they rightfully should be. Even I, who usually can’t stand black beer, think that U Fleků’s dark lager wasn’t too bad. But the highlight of the restaurant has got to be the musician. This old grandpa is so talented and chirpy, you should totally watch my video just to see his performance.
The microbrewery’s got the atmosphere perfect, but how about the food? We call it pork knuckle, but people in Prague call them pork knee. The roasted pork knee is the softest I have ever eaten, the skin is full of fat that melts away the instant it hits your mouth. I loved it. Unfortunately, bae loved it too, but gobbled away most of the skin. But true love is about sharing (I think), so he’s forgiven.
Now why did he steal most of my pork knee? It could be because of what he ordered. Beef in cream sauce with dumplings. Where are the dumplings, you wonder? Dumplings are actually what they call damp bread in Prague. So these four slices of soggy bread are dumplings. They are Prague’s local cuisine, and I confess, we don’t like them. The cream sauce wasn’t too bad actually, the red jam made it sweet, and bae don’t like sweet meat. There wasn’t enough meat anyways, just a small slice of beef. So he needed more protein and stole from me.
Address: Křemencova 11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tel: +420 224 934 019–20
Opening Hours: Daily 10.00 – 23.00, Closed on December 24
Metro station: Narodni trida (line B)
Tram stop: Narodni trida (trams 2, 9, 18, 22); Lazarska (trams 3,5,6,9,14,24)
A Restaurant with A History – Café Louvre
Café Louvre is a famous restaurant with a rich history. It used to be frequented by famous people like Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein. It retains the past grandeur of Prague’s cafes, as you can see from the delicately carved white and pink walls. So it is a great place for a date night out. The cafe’s service is exceptional too, they provide excellent service recovery. What happened was they mixed up our orders, and the table next to ours ended up being served our food. As they are fellow tourists, they actually had no idea what they were eating. And by the way, I ordered rabbit meat. The lady next to me ate it because she thought it was chicken, which was what she ordered. When the waiters eventually found out, they were not only extremely apologetic, they also gave us complimentary dessert. Yay to free dessert and great service.
This is the rabbit meat I ordered. While it is not traditional Prague cuisine, it was delicious. The fillet was grilled to tender perfection, and paired with very well with the sour cabbage. The potatoes on the side were very springy and chewy, they probably added something to make it this way, and I’m loving whatever it is they added.
Bae ordered beef goulash, and beef goulash is a traditional Prague cuisine. But as you can see, it comes with dumplings, and is yet another version of meat covered in gravy. We really are not fans of wet meat and bread.
Now on to our free desserts! This is a blueberry cake with homemade vanilla ice cream. It was filled with real crushed blueberries, and the crust was warm and crumbly. Yum.
And this one is a Lourve signature. It is yogurt ice cream topped with white chocolate shavings, raspberry sauce and wafer. Again, the raspberry sauce is made from real raspberries, so you can taste the juicy fruit at every munch. The sweet and sour pairing is a great combination. I really liked Café Louvre’s desserts.
Address: Národní 22, Praha 1, 110 00
Tel: +420 724 054 055 ; +420 224 930 949
Opening Hours: Mon–Fri 08.00 – 23.30 ; Sat–Sun 09.00 – 23.30
Metro station: Narodni trida (line B)
Tram stop: Narodni trida (trams 2, 9, 18, 22)
Meat Lovers Paradise in Naše maso
At first glance, it may look just like a butcher’s shop, and it is. But it is no ordinary butcher’s shop, for they can actually cook the meat that you ordered right here in the shop. It may seem strange and slightly off-putting to be eating with raw meat hanging before you, but it was actually totally fine when we gave it a shot. And the meat here I tasted are the best I have ever had in my entire life. Juicy and tender, they got everything down to perfection.
This is their famous cheeseburger, and the meat may seem very raw, but to me, I like my steak medium rare, so this is just right. Thick chunks of meat and oozing cheese, I wish I could eat it again.
This is a meatloaf. It’s also known as the best meatloaf in Prague, and indeed it was. Moist, tender, and juicy. Though I don’t much care for the sides. I never liked pickles, and the bread, was well, just bread. A little on the dry side too.
Steak tartare is raw grounded meat mixed with spices. What is the garlic for? You first rub the garlic over the toasted bread to give it a garlicky hint of spice and then you spread the creamy tartare on top. A divine spread it was. I have tried raw seafood yes, but raw meat? It was my first, and definitely won’t be my last.
Address: Dlouhá 39, Prague 1, 110 00 (A few minutes walk from Old Town Square)
Email: firstname.lastname@example.orgT: +420 222 311 378
Opening Hours: Mon–Sat 08.30 – 22.00
Getting to Old Town Square:Metro station: Staromestska (line A), Namesti Republiky (line B), Mustek (lines A & B) Tram stop: Staromestska (trams 2, 17, 18)
Jiřího z Poděbrad Farmers Market
While you are in Prague, you should check out its farmers markets too, for they do sell food besides fruits and vegetables. We only managed to find a small one in Vinohrady, Jiřího z Poděbrad Farmers Market, which is just outside Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station, near a pretty church lined by cherry blossoms.
We went there for a quick breakfast, so we only ordered quiche and soup. But the quiche was thick and creamy, and mine had jalapeños which provided a nice spicy crunch to the texture. The mushroom soup was too, very creamy and full of chopped mushrooms. What a better way to have a very good breakfast than with a tranquil view of the church and flowers, right?
Address: Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad 6, Prague 3, 130 00
Opening hours: Wed–Fri 08.00 – 18.00, Sat 08.00 – 14.00 (February – December)
Metro Station: Jiřího z Poděbrad